The Ultimate Guide To Ice Climbing In The Usa: Tips, Techniques, And Must-Visit Spots

Ice climbing is one of the most exhilarating activities you can do in the United States, and it’s also a great way to get outdoors on your own terms. But before you start scaling frozen waterfalls, there are some things you need to know. T

his guide will help you get started with everything from gear selection to basic techniques for beginner ice climbers—and give you five must-see spots that any ice climber should check out.

IFMGA Alpine Guide Answers Top FAQs About Ice Climbing
Takeaways
Ice climbing is a thrilling and challenging sport that requires proper gear, techniques, and safety precautions.
There are many incredible ice climbing destinations in the US, from beginner-friendly spots to more advanced routes for experienced climbers.
To get started in ice climbing, it’s essential to have the right gear, including ice axes, crampons, a climbing harness, and a helmet.
Proper technique is also crucial for success in ice climbing, and involves using ice axes and crampons to gain purchase on the ice, as well as mastering more advanced techniques for climbing steep ice.
Safety is paramount in ice climbing, and climbers should be aware of hazards like avalanches, falling ice, and unstable ice formations. It’s also important to climb with a partner and communicate clearly throughout the climb.

A Beginners’ Guide To Ice Climbing

Ice climbing is a great way to get into the outdoors. If you’re new to climbing, or just want to try something new, ice climbing can be a fun activity for anyone who wants to get outside and get some exercise.

The sport of ice climbing has been around since at least the Vikings (they were known for their prowess as climbers). 

It involves scaling any kind of frozen waterfall or frozen water source including frozen lakes, rivers, and even bergs using nothing but crampons (metal spikes) and an ice axe. 

While it might look similar to rock climbing in appearance, there are major differences that make it more challenging. 

For one thing, ice is much harder than rock; it’s also colder (usually below freezing), so your hands will feel numb after only 20 minutes on the wall so warm gloves are highly recommended! And while proper technique will help you get up more easily on your own without help from others in most cases.

Exploring ice climbing in the US? You don’t want to miss our list of the top 15 destinations to add to your bucket list! From Colorado to Alaska, we’ve got you covered with the most breathtaking and challenging routes.

Get Your Gear Together

You’ve got your gear and you’re in the parking lot ready to head up. Before you set out, there are a few things to consider.

  • What should I bring?

There is no hard and fast rule to what type of equipment you should bring with you on your climbing trip. Personally, I find that having a few extra layers never hurts! 

The main thing to remember is that your bag needs to fit into your car (or whatever vehicle you’re traveling in), so keep this in mind as well when packing for the day.

  • How do I pack my gear?

This depends on what kind of day we’re looking at: if it’s going to be sunny and warm, then sure just throw everything into one big bag; but if it’s cold outside or there might be rain during our climb (and if we don’t want any soggy shoes!)

Then separate them into their own containers with some plastic bags around them for extra protection from moisture damage or getting wet through condensation buildup inside your pack itself! 

This way everything stays nice dry until needed later on down the line.

Top Ice Climbing Gear Brands

Here are some of the top brands to consider when getting your ice climbing gear together:

Brand NameDescription
Black DiamondA leading manufacturer of climbing gear, including ice axes, crampons, helmets, harnesses, and more.
PetzlKnown for their innovative and high-quality climbing gear, including ice axes, crampons, harnesses, and headlamps.
La SportivaSpecializes in climbing and mountaineering boots, including models specifically designed for ice climbing.
MammutOffers a range of climbing gear and clothing, including ropes, helmets, harnesses, and jackets designed for cold weather.
Arc’teryxKnown for their technical outdoor gear, including insulated jackets, pants, and gloves designed for ice climbing and other cold-weather activities.

These brands are known for producing high-quality gear that is durable, reliable and designed for the unique demands of ice climbing. When it comes to purchasing gear, it’s important to invest in quality equipment that will keep you safe and comfortable on the ice.

Basic Techniques For Beginner Ice Climbers

  • Ice climbing basics:
  • Climbing a pitch
  • Belaying
  • Rappelling
  • Ice climbing knots and harnesses (figure eights, slings, etc.)

For beginners looking to start their journey in ice climbing, our guide to the best ice climbing spots in the US is the perfect resource! From Ouray Ice Park to Frankenstein Cliffs, we’ll help you find the right spot to get started.

Five Must-See Spots For Any Ice Climber In The Usa

Lake Willoughby, Vermont

Acadia National Park, Maine

Ouray Ice Park, Colorado (the largest ice climbing area in the US)

Joshua Tree National Park, California (home to some of the most unique climbing on the planet)

Hyalite Canyon in Montana is an incredible spot for beginners. It’s known as “The Swiss Alps Of America” and offers some of the best ice climbing conditions you’ll find anywhere in North America.

Top 5 Ice Climbing Destinations in the USA

Here are five must-see spots for any ice climber in the USA, along with some of the features that make each destination special:

DestinationFeatures
Ouray Ice Park, ColoradoOver 200 ice and mixed climbs, ranging from beginner to advanced levels, in a park specifically designed for ice climbing.
Hyalite Canyon, MontanaBeautiful scenery and a range of classic ice routes, including the famous “Whitewater” route.
Valdez, AlaskaA remote and challenging destination with stunning views of the Chugach Mountains and plenty of opportunities for new routes.
Lake Willoughby, VermontKnown for its consistently cold temperatures, making for reliable ice conditions on classic routes like “The Black Line” and “The Fang”.
Munising, MichiganA popular destination in the Midwest with over 100 ice routes in the area, as well as opportunities for mixed climbing on nearby Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.

These spots offer some of the best ice climbing experiences in the USA, with a range of routes and challenges for climbers of all levels.

Lake Willoughby, Vermont

Lake Willoughby is a gorgeous place to ice climb, with thousands of routes and an abundance of campsites. 

It’s also one of the best places for beginners to learn how to ice climb as there are many easy routes and good spots for camping.

The lake itself is stunning, surrounded by mountains that are covered in snow year-round. There are several different areas around Lake Willoughby where you can go ice climbing: the Pinnacle Ridge area near Bolton Valley Ski Resort, Black Mountain Road near Smugglers Notch Resort, Great Head near Smugglers Notch Resort (this area has some steeper terrain)

Eastman Brook Road between Cambridge and Barton (which is less than an hour from Burlington), and Mount Mansfield State Forest on UVM’s campus which features some challenging climbs like “Owl” or “Crow” depending on how much experience you want!

Looking for an adrenaline rush? Discover the most spectacular ice climbing spots in the US and get ready for some jaw-dropping views. Our list includes iconic locations like Valdez and Ouray, as well as some hidden gems that you won’t want to miss.

Acadia National Park, Maine

Acadia is one of the most popular ice climbing destinations in the US. Located on Mount Desert Island, it’s home to over 50 miles of challenging trails and various spots to climb. 

Among them are Great Head and Eagle Cliff, which have routes that range from 5.0-5.6 and 5.6-5.8 difficulty levels respectively. 

If you’re new to ice climbing or don’t know where to start with this sport, these two areas are great options for getting acquainted with all things icy!

Ouray Ice Park, Colorado

Ouray Ice Park is one of the most iconic ice climbing destinations in the world. It’s located in Ouray, Colorado and is a year-round destination for ice climbers. The park has over 1,000 routes and more than 1,000 bolts.

Ouray is known for its steep climbs as well as its quality ice. The steep walls are perfect for maximizing your time on the ice when you’re looking to get some laps in before dark (or during early morning).

Ready for an epic adventure? Our insider’s guide to the most epic ice climbing adventures in the US will help you plan an unforgettable trip. From climbing frozen waterfalls to exploring remote glaciers, we’ve got all the details you need.

Joshua Tree National Park, California

Joshua Tree National Park is a great place to go ice climbing. It’s located in Southern California, which is warm enough for ice climbing most of the year. 

There are many different types of terrain, routes and weather in Joshua Tree National Park that make it an ideal place for ice climbing.

Hyalite Canyon, Montana

You can’t mention ice climbing in the United States without mentioning Hyalite Canyon. This is one of the most popular ice climbing destinations in the world, and for good reason.

It’s located in Gallatin National Forest, Montana, and boasts some of best conditions for learning how to climb on frozen waterfalls anywhere.

Hyalite Canyon lies within a short distance from Bozeman, Montana—home of MSU-Bozeman, who plays in NCAA Division I hockey (go Bobcats!).

Experienced climber looking for a challenge? Our list of the most dangerous ice climbing routes in America will put your skills to the test. From Mount Everest to Denali, these routes are not for the faint of heart.

Conclusion

If you’re looking for a new sport to try, ice climbing is an excellent option. It’s accessible and exciting, but it also requires some training and preparation. 

The best thing about ice climbing is that anyone can do it regardless of your experience level or skill set! With these tips, we hope that you will be well on your way towards becoming an ice climber in no time at all.

Further Reading

For more information on ice climbing, check out these helpful resources:

The Ultimate Guide to Ice Climbing for Beginners – A comprehensive guide to getting started in ice climbing, including essential gear, safety tips, and techniques for climbing ice.

Ice Climbing: What You Need to Know – A beginner-friendly guide to ice climbing, with tips and tricks for staying safe and comfortable on the ice.

Ice Climbing: Waterfalls and Alpine Walls – A detailed guide to ice climbing technique, gear, and safety, with tips on how to climb waterfalls and alpine walls.

FAQs

Here are some common questions about ice climbing:

What is ice climbing?

Ice climbing is a type of climbing that involves scaling frozen waterfalls, ice cliffs, and other icy terrain using specialized gear and techniques.

What gear do I need for ice climbing?

Some essential gear for ice climbing includes ice axes, crampons, a climbing harness, a helmet, and warm, waterproof clothing.

Is ice climbing dangerous?

Ice climbing can be dangerous, especially for beginners. It’s important to have the right gear, training, and experience to stay safe on the ice.

What are some basic ice climbing techniques?

Some basic ice climbing techniques include using an ice axe and crampons to gain purchase on the ice, and front-pointing to climb steep ice.

How can I stay safe while ice climbing?

Staying safe while ice climbing involves using the right gear, checking the stability of the ice, and being aware of hazards like avalanches and falling ice. It’s also important to climb with a partner and communicate clearly.