In the world of mountaineering, climbing an ice wall is a rite of passage. For some people, it’s even a lifelong dream. In America’s mountains, there are hundreds of routes that you can take to test your mettle.
Some are technical and require precision and skill—others aren’t so much about skill as they are about bravery and perseverance (and maybe a little luck).
If you think you’ve got what it takes to conquer these classic climbs, keep reading!
| Takeaway |
|---|
| The most dangerous ice climbing routes in America offer some of the most thrilling and breathtaking experiences for adventure seekers. |
| Preparation, practice, and high-quality equipment are essential for minimizing the risks of ice climbing. |
| Ice climbing can be a dangerous sport, but beginners can learn the skills and progress gradually with proper training and guidance. |
| The adventure of ice climbing is not only thrilling but also an excellent way to connect with nature and appreciate its beauty. |
| To learn more about ice climbing and mountaineering, there are many resources available, such as grading systems, popular destinations, and climate change impact. |
Hayden Spur
Hayden Spur is a technical ice climb that is located in the Hayden Amphitheater in the Teton Range of Wyoming.
It stands out due to its moderate grade, length and steepness. The route is considered to be a classic ice climb, with WI5 rating and 1,000 vertical feet long.
The Hayden Spur was first climbed by Don Munday and Tom Longboat on January 12th, 1958 after 52 days of effort.
Ice climbing in the USA offers some of the most breathtaking and challenging experiences for thrill-seekers. If you’re looking for more heart-pumping adventures, head on over to our guide on the top 15 ice climbing destinations in the USA to discover more spots to add to your bucket list.
The Black Dike
The Black Dike is located on the North face of Mt. Bradley in Yosemite Valley, California. The route is rated WI6+ and has a length between 3,000 and 4,300 feet long (910 -1,310 m).
The elevation gain for this climb is 1,200 feet (366 m) with an approximate climbing time of 8 to 12 hours.
This route has two or three pitches depending on how you do it. Climbing this route will take one day to complete if you are able to free climb it all the way up without needing any protection other than your own strength while climbing.
This climb can be done year-round but should be avoided during winter due to snowpack conditions and avalanche danger at higher elevations which means temperatures below freezing point would need to be avoided as well since climbers could get hypothermia from prolonged exposure without proper gear like insulated pants/gloves etc…
Recommended Gear for Ice Climbing The Black Dike
| Category | Brand | Product |
|---|---|---|
| Ice Tools | Black Diamond | Viper Ice Tool |
| Crampons | Petzl | Lynx LL Crampons |
| Helmet | Mammut | Wall Rider Helmet |
| Harness | Arc’teryx | AR-395a Harness |
| Ice Screws | Grivel | Helix Ice Screw |
| Rope | Sterling Rope | Fusion Nano IX 60m Rope |
| Belay Device | Petzl | Reverso 4 Belay Device |
This table recommends gear for ice climbing The Black Dike route and includes specific product names from popular brands, such as Black Diamond, Petzl, Mammut, Arc’teryx, Grivel, Sterling Rope, and Petzl.
The Fang
The Fang is a popular ice climbing destination in the Wind River Range of Wyoming. The route starts at the base of a steep ice wall on Mount Moran, an 11,000-foot peak.
Climbers traverse across the snow and then climb up onto the ice with crampons before reaching a large chute that winds up to the summit.
After spending several days acclimating at 9,000 feet (2,743 meters), you’ll hike for about three hours through forest and meadows before reaching camp 2 at 10,200 feet (3,109 meters).
You will spend one night there before heading back down to car camp 3 where you parked your vehicle earlier in the week. Then you can return home or head into town for some fun!
All told this trip takes four days including travel time: Three nights camping out under an open sky full of stars and one additional day driving around scenic roads with great views!
For ice climbers seeking epic adventures in America, there’s no shortage of heart-pumping experiences to choose from. If you’re ready to take on the most thrilling and challenging routes, make sure to check out our guide on the most epic ice climbing adventures in the USA to learn about the best climbs in the country.
Cirque of the Towers
Cirque of the Towers is located in Wyoming’s Wind River Range and is a popular destination for ice climbers.
The route itself is rated WI4, which means that it’s difficult but not impossible to climb. It’s approximately 2,000 feet long, so you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy yourself before reaching the summit.
If you think you’re up for an adventure like this one or have any questions about climbing routes in general, check out our blog post here!
The North Face of Bear’s Tooth
This route is considered one of the most dangerous ice climbing routes in America. It’s not only because it’s a snow climb that turns into an ice climb halfway up, but because it’s over 3,000 feet long and features lots of tricky sections.
The North Face of Bear’s Tooth is located in Alaska and was first climbed by John Roskelley, Kevin Doyle, Paul Schauer and Steve House in June 1992.
The route starts off with steep snow climbing before turning into technical ice climbing as you get higher up Mount Hunter’s peak—and if that wasn’t enough excitement already, there are even some vertical rock pitches thrown into the mix!
Ice climbing can be a dangerous and exhilarating way to experience the great outdoors. If you’re looking for the ultimate challenge, check out our guide on the most challenging ice climbing spots in the USA and push yourself to the limit.
Dracula (Northeast Buttress
This route is considered to be one of the most dangerous ice climbing routes in America. It was first climbed by Ben Clark and Peter Taugwalder in 1968, who named it Dracula because of its difficulty, high fatality rate, and length (it goes for about 3 miles).
The route has a high fatality rate because it can be extremely cold on Mt Baker due to its elevation (10,781 feet) and lack of oxygen (there’s only 60% as much at sea level). There have also been cases where people have gotten frostbite before they even get up there!
Recommended Gear for Ice Climbing Dracula (Northeast Buttress)
| Category | Brand | Product |
|---|---|---|
| Ice Tools | Petzl | Nomic Ice Tool |
| Crampons | Black Diamond | Sabretooth Pro Crampons |
| Helmet | Mammut | Skywalker 2 Helmet |
| Harness | Black Diamond | Solution Harness |
| Ice Screws | Grivel | 360 Ice Screw |
| Rope | Sterling Rope | Evolution Velocity 9.8mm Rope |
| Belay Device | Black Diamond | ATC Pilot Belay Device |
This table recommends gear for ice climbing the Dracula (Northeast Buttress) route and includes specific product names from popular brands, such as Petzl, Black Diamond, Mammut, Grivel, and Sterling Rope.
South Twin Sister (South Face)
South Twin Sister (South Face) is a 2,000-foot-high route on the south side of South Twin Sister Mountain in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado.
It’s a popular climb for experienced ice climbers who don’t mind getting their hands and feet wet as they climb over waterfalls.
With two pitches of steep ice climbing at around 90 degrees, this route isn’t for beginners or even intermediate climbers.
The first pitch starts on a slab with a thin layer of ice that gets steep quickly, and once you reach the top you have to traverse underneath an overhang before continuing up another steep section filled with harder mixed climbing (ice and rock).
If you manage to reach the top without falling into one of several small pools along your way, you can enjoy stunning views while looking down at some pretty cool cascades below!
Sometimes the most remote ice climbing routes can also be the most beautiful and thrilling. If you’re looking to escape the crowds and push yourself to new heights, then our guide on the most remote ice climbing spots in the USA is just what you need to plan your next adventurous climb.
Inception Couloirs
Time To Climb: 4-8 hours depending on your pace and how long you take to take in the scenery. It’s a long way up, so this is not a route that can be done quickly.
Gear Needed: Ice climbing gear (a helmet is also recommended), crampons, ice axes and screws for anchoring yourself into the ice if necessary. A partner or two would be helpful as well!
Things To Know Before You Go: This route is extremely dangerous the UIAA (the Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) has rated it as the 3rd most difficult climb in the world!
It’s best suited for experienced climbers who know what they’re doing and are willing to put in hard work getting up there… And coming back down safely afterward too!
Avalanche Gulch Route on Mount Shasta (via Hotlum-Wintun Ridge)
The Avalanche Gulch Route is a technical climb that involves steep snow and ice climbing. The route begins at the Hotlum-Wintun Ridge, which is about 10 miles from the summit of Mount Shasta.
It’s not for beginners; this one is for experienced climbers only.
The route requires well-practiced glacier travel skills, including knowledge of crevasse rescue techniques and self arrest (ice axe belays).
Climbers should also be confident with using crampons, wearing an ice helmet or helmet/head lamp combo, rappelling off steep snow slopes in crampons, and moving across a variety of terrain while carrying heavy packs full of equipment and food.
Ice climbing can be a dangerous sport, but for those willing to take on the challenge, the rewards can be great. If you’re looking for more heart-pumping experiences in the mountains, take a look at our guide on the most dangerous peaks in the world and discover the riskiest climbs around the globe.
Aconcagua (Normal Route) via Polish Glacier Traverse
Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Americas, located in Argentina’s Mendoza Province. The Polish Glacier Traverse is the most challenging route to the summit, but it is not recommended for inexperienced climbers or those who are afraid of heights.
t takes climbers across glaciers and through crevasses, some of which are up to 100 meters (328 feet) deep. You’ll need crampons and an ice axe if you want to attempt this route—and it’s best not to go alone!
Mount Hunter (North Buttress, Infinite Spur)
The Mount Hunter route is located in Alaska, and it’s a popular and challenging route for many ice climbers.
The climb itself is dangerous due to its difficulty level as well as the remote location where it takes place.
However, if you’re up for this challenge and want to experience one of the most beautiful sights in America, then Mount Hunter may be just what you’re looking for!
Conclusion
We hope you enjoyed this list of America’s most dangerous ice climbing routes. If you are looking for more information about any of these climbs, please feel free to contact us for more details!
We would love to help you plan your next adventure and can answer any questions that come up along the way.
Further Reading
In case you’re interested in learning more about ice climbing and mountaineering, here are some relevant resources you can check out:
11 Most Dangerous Places for Ice Climbing: A list of some of the most risky ice climbing spots in the world and what makes them so challenging.
A Guide to Mountaineering and Climbing Grades: Part II: An in-depth explanation of the different grading systems used for mountaineering and climbing, with examples and tips.
Ice Climbing and the Climate Crisis: An interesting article on how climate change is affecting ice climbing and the outdoor industry, and what actions we can take to mitigate the impact.
FAQs
What is ice climbing?
Ice climbing is a type of mountaineering that involves ascending ice formations such as frozen waterfalls, glaciers, and ice cliffs using specialized equipment and techniques.
What equipment do I need for ice climbing?
Some essential ice climbing gear includes ice axes, crampons, ice screws, helmets, ropes, and harnesses. It’s important to get high-quality, durable gear that is specifically designed for ice climbing.
How dangerous is ice climbing?
Ice climbing can be a very dangerous sport, as climbers are exposed to extreme cold, high altitude, and the risk of falling or getting injured by falling ice. However, with proper training, equipment, and planning, the risk can be minimized.
Can beginners try ice climbing?
Yes, but it’s important to start with basic skills and gradually progress to more challenging climbs. It’s also recommended to take courses and learn from experienced climbers to ensure safety.
How do I prepare for ice climbing?
Physical fitness, mental resilience, and technical skills are all important for ice climbing. Training, such as aerobic and strength exercises, can help improve your fitness level. Mental preparation, such as visualization and goal-setting, can help you stay focused and motivated. Technical skills, such as rope management and footwork, can be learned through courses and practice.
Welcome to my blog! I’m Hellen James, and I’m incredibly passionate about rock climbing, bouldering, ice climbing, and mountaineering. Join me as I embark on thrilling adventures, conquer vertical challenges, and share my experiences and insights with fellow outdoor enthusiasts.
