The Most Dangerous Bouldering Routes (You Won’t Believe These Exist!)

If you’ve ever visited Yosemite National Park, then you’ll know that it’s home to some of the most breathtaking scenery in the world. 

The park has long attracted climbers and backpackers alike, but in recent years it has also become a hotspot for bouldering enthusiasts. If you’re not familiar with the sport of bouldering (which involves climbing large rocks), here’s a quick rundown: bouldering can be done without ropes or harnesses on low walls and other structures. 

These walls can range from around four feet tall all the way up to over 50 feet high! Some experts say that “highball” bouldering is one of the most dangerous types of rock climbing out there—and we’ll get into why that is below.

Should We Re-bolt the World’s Most Dangerous Route?
Takeaways
Rock climbing is a challenging and rewarding sport that requires both physical and mental strength.
Proper equipment and training are essential for staying safe while rock climbing.
There are many different types of climbing, each with its own unique challenges and techniques.
Climbing ethics are an important consideration for climbers, as they play a role in preserving natural landscapes and ensuring the safety of all participants.
If you are interested in getting started with rock climbing, it is important to find a qualified instructor and start with climbs that match your skill level.

1: El Capitan, Yosemite National Park

El Capitan is the world’s largest monolith, standing 3,593 meters tall and weighing over 2 billion pounds. It’s also one of the most famous climbing objectives in the world; first climbed by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore in 1958. 

The route they took up El Capitan was called “The Nose,” and remains one of America’s most sought-after climbs today. For those who are not ready for such an intense challenge yet (or just want to enjoy some beautiful scenery), there are plenty of other options available on El Capitan:

Free Rider (5.10d) – This route descends along an easy path that leads down into another valley near Yosemite Valley called Little Yosemite Valley (LYV). You can hike back up this same path if you become tired during your climb up The Nose or if weather conditions force an early descent from your route up high on El Capitan’s east face!

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2: The Mallory Cave, Yosemite National Park

The Mallory Cave is the second most dangerous bouldering route in the world. It was named after George Mallory, who was one of the first people to climb Mount Everest. 

He and his partner Andrew Irvine attempted to reach its peak in 1924 but were never seen again. In 2010, evidence was found that may indicate that they actually made it all the way up Everest–but died on their way back down.

Recommended Climbing Spots and Equipment

Climbing SpotsRecommended Equipment
The Nose route, El Capitan, Yosemite National ParkBlack Diamond ATC belay device, Sterling Rope Evolution Velocity 9.8mm climbing rope, La Sportiva TC Pro climbing shoes
Joshua Tree National Park, CaliforniaMetolius Cams, Omega Pacific Link Cams, Petzl Grigri belay device, Five Ten Anasazi climbing shoes
Mallory Cave, Boulder, COPetzl GRIGRI+ belay device, Mammut Twilight Ropes, La Sportiva Miura VS shoes
Smith Rock, OregonDMM Dragon Cams, Black Diamond Camalot C4s, Petzl Grigri 2 belay device, La Sportiva Kataki climbing shoes
Red River Gorge, KentuckyMetolius Ultralight Master Cams, Black Diamond C3 Camalots, Petzl Reverso belay device, Scarpa Vapor V climbing shoes

The table above lists recommended climbing spots and equipment for individuals interested in rock climbing. The Mallory Cave in Boulder, CO is one of the recommended climbing spots, and the Petzl GRIGRI+ belay device, Mammut Twilight Ropes, and La Sportiva Miura VS shoes are among the recommended equipment for climbing in this location.

3: The Titan, Colorado

The Titan is a massive sandstone tower located in the Garden of the Gods, Colorado. The Titan is considered one of the most difficult bouldering routes in the world and has been climbed by only a handful of people.

The route was first ascended by Fred Nicole and Jon Cardwell on October 30th, 2004 after two years of work. It was later repeated by several others including Alex Huber on September 6th 2007 who made an ascent time of 1 hour and 26 minutes–the fastest recorded time to date!

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4: Double Cross, Bishop, California

Double Cross is a sport climbing route that was first climbed by a team of climbers from Bishop, California. It’s rated 5.13c and has about 30 feet of vertical face to climb on. The name comes from the fact that you can see double cracks in each crack before starting up your climb.

The route was first climbed in 1990 by Tom Ballard, Steve Swenson, and Matt Werner—a group of friends who had been bouldering together since they were kids (but never actually went on any trips together). 

They got the idea while traveling around with their family when they realized how much fun it would be to see some classic routes outside their hometowns—and then decide whether or not they wanted to do them!

This particular line has been seen as one of the most dangerous ones out there because it looks so clean; however there are many other routes just like it across America which make this one look tame compared with its reputation as one of America’s most notorious climbs—and possibly even more dangerous than ever thought possible!

Top Rock Climbing Routes and Gear

Rock Climbing RoutesRecommended Gear
El Capitan, Yosemite National ParkSterling Rope 9.0mm IonR climbing rope, Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight cams, La Sportiva TC Pro climbing shoes
Moonlight Buttress, Zion National ParkPetzl Grigri 2 belay device, Sterling Rope Photon 7.8mm climbing rope, Scarpa Vapor V climbing shoes, Black Diamond Camalot C4 cams
Double Cross, Bishop, CaliforniaMetolius ultralight TCU cams, Black Diamond Camalot C4 cams, La Sportiva Solution climbing shoes
Grand Teton, WyomingBlack Diamond ATC Guide belay device, Sterling Rope 7.8mm Ion2 Half Rope, La Sportiva Miura VS climbing shoes
The Naked Edge, Eldorado Canyon, ColoradoPetzl Connect Adjust belay device, Sterling Rope Nano IX 9mm climbing rope, Scarpa Instinct VS climbing shoes, Black Diamond Camalot C4 cams

The table above lists some of the best rock climbing routes and recommended gear for climbers. Double Cross, Bishop, California is one of the top rock climbing routes on the list, and the Metolius ultralight TCU cams, Black Diamond Camalot C4 cams, and La Sportiva Solution climbing shoes are among the recommended gear for this climb.

5: The Bilberberg, Germany

The Bilberberg is a famous climbing route in Germany. It’s long, steep and located in the Bavarian Forest. The route has been climbed by many famous climbers, including Reinhold Messner and Walter Rupp.

The Bilberberg is not for beginners! If you want to conquer this challenge, be sure that your skills are up to par with those who have come before you.

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6: Cobra Crack, Squamish, Canada

Cobra Crack is a 100-meter sport route in Squamish, British Columbia, Canada.

Cobra Crack is one of the most famous sport climbs in Squamish and was first climbed by Randy Leavitt in 1994 at age 19. Since then it has been repeated by many climbers including Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell and Jimmy Webb who all climbed it as 5.13a (or harder).

Popular Climbing Routes and Equipment

Climbing RoutesRecommended Equipment
El Capitan, Yosemite National ParkBlack Diamond Camalot Ultralight cams, Sterling Rope 9.0mm IonR climbing rope, La Sportiva TC Pro climbing shoes
Mount Thor, Baffin Island, CanadaPetzl GriGri+ belay device, Sterling Rope Marathon Pro 10.1mm climbing rope, Scarpa Phantom Tech mountaineering boots
Half Dome, Yosemite National ParkPetzl Reverso belay device, Sterling Rope Evolution Velocity 9.8mm climbing rope, La Sportiva Kataki climbing shoes
Cobra Crack, Squamish, CanadaBlack Diamond Camalot C4 cams, DMM Dragon Cams, La Sportiva Genius climbing shoes
The Diamond, Longs Peak, ColoradoPetzl Grigri 2 belay device, Sterling Rope Nano IX 9mm climbing rope, La Sportiva Miura climbing shoes, Black Diamond Camalot C4 cams

The table above lists popular climbing routes and recommended equipment for each climb. Cobra Crack, Squamish, Canada is one of the popular climbing routes on the list, and the Black Diamond Camalot C4 cams, DMM Dragon Cams, and La Sportiva Genius climbing shoes are among the recommended gear for this climb.

7: La Rambla, Spain

La Rambla is a limestone cliff located in Catalonia, Spain. The climb is a popular tourist attraction that can be easily found along the Mediterranean Sea.

La Rambla rises from the sea at an angle of 70 degrees, making it one of the steepest climbs on earth and one that should only be attempted by experienced climbers who are physically fit enough to handle such high altitudes without oxygen masks or ropes (though some people do use them).

There are two ways up La Rambla: either by walking down into its crevasses or using ropes to climb upwards along its face–both methods require careful planning ahead of time so you don’t fall into water below!

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8: Archinine, Red River Gorge, Kentucky

This route is a grade V, and it’s located in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. The climb is a multi-pitch trad climb with 1000ft of climbing. The first pitch begins with an easy slab, but then you’ll be faced with some difficult crack climbing. 

The second pitch starts off with more crack climbing that gets progressively harder as you go higher up the wall–it’s rated 5.10d (or 11a). From there it switches back to face climbing on large holds and flakes until reaching belay ledge for three more pitches!

9: Necessary Evil, Virgin River Gorge, Utah

The Necessary Evil is a popular route at the Virgin River Gorge and is considered to be one of the most dangerous routes in the world. 

The route is rated 5.13a and is over 1,000 feet tall. It has been said that this climb has claimed more lives than any other climb in Utah, which means if you decide to take on this challenge you better know what you’re doing!

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10: Dihedral Wall and Leaning Tower, Yosemite National Park

This climbing spot is a popular one for intermediate climbers. It’s also a strenuous climb that can be dangerous if you aren’t careful. If you’re looking for something easy and safe, this isn’t it! This route is not for beginners or those who don’t know what they’re doing.

11. Sisyphus Rocks and Concussion Corner, Mount Whitney, California

Sisyphus Rocks is a boulder problem on the east face of Mount Whitney in California. It is a popular destination for climbers and BASE jumpers, who make their way up this steep rock face by climbing, jumping off and then parachuting back down. 

The route was first climbed in 1975 by Pat Ament and Ray Jardine (who also invented the sport of mountain biking). 

The name comes from Greek mythology: Sisyphus was punished for his misdeeds by being forced to roll an enormous boulder up a hill every day only to have it roll back down at night so he could start again from scratch the next morning.

The route itself can be described as short but intense–you’ll need excellent footwork and balance skills if you want to get past all those boulders! It’s rated 5.10c on the Yosemite Decimal System scale (YDS), which means that it’s pretty difficult but still doable for most intermediate climbers who are familiar with their gear and techniques (and should know how to fall safely).

12. The Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, USA

The Nose of El Capitan is a famous rock climbing route in Yosemite National Park, USA. The route is about 2,900 feet long and rated as a 5.9 on the Yosemite Decimal System. 

The Nose is one of the most popular rock climbing routes in the world because it’s considered to be one of the most difficult climbs for beginners (5.9). If you’re not into heights or fear of death, maybe this isn’t for you!

Conclusion

If you’re looking for a new challenge and want to experience some of the most amazing places in the world, these routes should be on your list. 

While they may not be for everyone, they offer an incredible opportunity for climbers from all levels of experience!

Further reading

Here are some additional resources that you might find helpful:

Check out Adam Ondra’s top 5 feats to learn more about the incredible climbing achievements of this world-renowned climber.

Interested in climbing ethics and the controversy surrounding chipping routes? Read Adam Ondra’s thoughts on climbing ethics: chipping routes, right or wrong? for a deeper dive into this topic.

Learn some interesting facts about rock climbing on ClimbingFacts.com. From the origins of the sport to notable achievements and more, this website has plenty of interesting tidbits to share.

FAQs

What is rock climbing?

Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the top of the climb or complete a set route in the safest manner possible.

What equipment is needed for rock climbing?

At a minimum, rock climbers need climbing shoes, a harness, and ropes. Other essential equipment includes quickdraws, carabiners, a helmet, and a belay device.

What are the different types of rock climbing?

There are several types of rock climbing, including bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, aid climbing, and free soloing. Each type has its own unique challenges and requires different equipment and techniques.

Is rock climbing dangerous?

Rock climbing can be dangerous, as it involves scaling cliffs and other natural structures at great heights. However, proper safety equipment and training can greatly reduce the risk of injury or death.

Can anyone go rock climbing?

Rock climbing can be enjoyed by people of all ages and fitness levels. However, it is important to receive proper instruction and to start with climbs that match your skill level.