The Best Bouldering Techniques For Every Level

Climbing, especially bouldering, is a sport that requires you to use your body in ways that you may never have imagined before.

Even if you’re just starting out or a seasoned pro, there are always new skills and techniques to learn and master. And as much as we’d like to think that we’ve got everything down pat by now, it’s probably time for us all to start honing our skills again!

With this guide packed full of tips and tricks from the pros themselves, we’ll show you how to take your game to the next level with advanced techniques so that every climb becomes easier than ever before!

All 86 climbing techniques, from beginner to pro
Key Takeaways
Basic bouldering techniques include proper footwork and body positioning.
Focus on precise and efficient movement while climbing, rather than relying on strength alone.
Mentally prepare for bouldering by visualizing each movement and practicing falling safely.
Climbing outside requires additional precautions such as checking weather conditions and using proper gear.
Consistent training and practice are essential for improving bouldering skills and technique.

The Master

The master grip is a great tool for advanced climbers. It’s used to climb steep walls, overhanging walls and vertical walls.

The master grip gets its name from the fact that it allows you to use your entire hand as opposed to just the tips of your fingers or thumb like in other grips. 

This makes it perfect for climbing steep terrain where there isn’t much room between holds and you need maximum contact between your skin and rock surface in order to stay on route without falling off.

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The Undercling Master

If you’re a beginner, underclinging is a great technique to try. It’s also a good way to build finger strength, which will come in handy when tackling more difficult climbs down the line. Underclings are one of the most common grips used in climbing, so learning how to do them properly will help you get through many different routes and boulder problems.

Underclinging involves using your thumb and index finger against the underside of your hold–the “undercling” part–and then pulling yourself up with both arms via opposing forces: pressing down on one arm while pulling up on the other (or vice versa). 

This works especially well if there are two holds facing each other horizontally at different heights; it’s important not only that they’re close enough together but also that they’re positioned so that each side has enough surface area for someone whose hands aren’t very large or strong yet!

Top Undercling Climbing Holds

BrandProduct NameDescription
MetoliusSimulator Training Holds – Undercling SetDesigned for strength training, these undercling holds offer varying depths and shapes to challenge climbers.
So IllIron Palm – LargeMade from cast iron with a textured surface, these holds provide excellent grip for undercling moves.
Tension ClimbingFlash Board – Undercling SetThese wooden holds are designed specifically for undercling training, with different profiles to mimic different undercling shapes.
Kilter GripsEasy Pickins – Undercling SetThese holds offer a mix of positive and negative edges, making them ideal for warming up or honing technique on undercling routes.
eGripsHand Jammers – UnderclingsMade from durable urethane, these holds offer a variety of sizes and shapes to suit different skill levels and preferences.

The Heel-Hooker

A heel hook is one of the most effective ways to climb a boulder problem. A heel hook involves using your leg as an additional handhold, which allows you to pull yourself up when there aren’t any other options. 

This is especially helpful when climbing steep boulder problems that require extra strength and power in order to reach the top.

Heel hooks can also be used for balance purposes if there are no other holds available for feet on the wall (or floor). They’re particularly useful when bouldering indoors where there may be some slippery surfaces or polished holds that make it difficult for climbers with regular shoes on their feet.

Benefits: Heel hooks give climbers more options when selecting how they want their bodies positioned while climbing so they don’t have as much weight on one part of their body over another.

Disadvantages: If done incorrectly or improperly trained beforehand then this technique could lead into injury such as tendonitis due too much stress being placed upon those tendons.

How To Use It Correctly? First try doing these exercises at home by yourself before trying them during actual sessions with others around since this type requires more practice than most other techniques do.

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The Toe-Hooker

For beginners, the toe-hook is a great tool for getting up steep walls. You can use it to get a better grip on holds or pull yourself up to a rest.

For intermediate climbers, the toe-hook will help you get over obstacles that are too high for your arms but not too high for your feet to reach.

For advanced climbers and competitive climbers alike, it’s essential to master this technique because it helps you conserve energy by using less effort when climbing higher off the ground–which means more endurance for harder routes!

Top Toe Hook Climbing Holds

BrandProduct NameDescription
Tension ClimbingMark and Mike’s Toe BustersThese wooden holds specifically designed for toe-hooking come in two different shapes.
So IllIron Palm – SmallThese small, cast-iron holds double as great toe-holds, providing a suitable surface for any climber to rest their toes.
MetoliusProject Training Board – Modular Climbing Training BoardThis training board has specific attachments such as the Toe Hook Set and provides climbers with the flexibility to tailor their workouts.
eGripsHookersThese urethane holds work great for toe-hooking, with their unique shape making them ideal for practicing advanced moves.
Kilter GripsPitchin’ a Tent – Toe Hook SetThis set of holds includes various sizes and shapes for toe-hooking, with markings to indicate positive and negative edges.

Beginner Basics

Before you even get on the wall, there are a few things you should do to prepare yourself for your session. First off, do some warmup exercises! 

These will help stretch out tight muscles and joints so that you can climb safely and effectively. If possible, try doing these exercises daily before climbing or bouldering so that you’re used to them when it matters most.

One great way to warm up is by stretching out your fingers in preparation for gripping the holds on the wall (if they’re small enough). You can do this by interlacing them with one another while holding onto something stable like a chair or table edge–the goal here is just getting blood flowing through those digits! 

Another good option is doing pushups against the floor until they become easier; this will also train muscles needed for climbing well such as shoulders/back/arms etcetera…When training these types of movements regularly over time they become more natural which makes climbing easier overall too.”

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The Pinch Grip

The pinch grip is a very common technique in bouldering. It can be used to achieve many different holds on the wall, but it’s most commonly used to grab onto edges or small ledges that are too small for your fingers to fit into. 

To do this, you’ll need to place all four of your fingers together and then press them against an edge or ledge with as much force as possible. This will allow you to hold yourself up with one hand while still being able to reach out with another one if needed (such as when making moves).

Benefits: The main benefit of using this grip is that it allows climbers who aren’t strong enough yet pull off some difficult moves without having any trouble getting themselves into position first!

Top Pinch Climbing Holds

BrandProduct NameDescription
So IllIron Palm – MediumThese medium-sized pinch grips are made from cast iron, with a texture that is easy on the skin.
Tension ClimbingSimple JugsThese pinch climbing holds are designed to be beginner-friendly with a simple, flat shape for easy grip.
MetoliusSuper PinchesThese pinches are made from sturdy urethane and come in different sizes and shapes, challenging for climbers of all skill levels.
Kilter GripsHard Rocks – Pinch SetThis set includes varying sizes and shapes of pinches with contrasting textures, wood, and urethane.
eGripsPlate MailThese low profile pinch grips work well on flat walls and offer different angles to suit different preferences.

The Jug Grip

The jug is the most basic climbing hold, and it’s usually the largest one you’ll find on a boulder problem. 

You can use your feet to push yourself up while you pull with your arms, or vice versa. If you’re having trouble reaching high enough to grab the jugs, try placing your feet higher than normal–this will give you more power in order to reach those elusive handholds!

Whether you are a beginner or advanced climber, practicing proper rock climbing techniques can improve your climbing efficiency. Follow our expert advice and learn new tricks to master rock climbing in our guide on “rock climbing tips and tricks: expert advice for success.”

The Sloper Grip

The sloper, or thumb-only grip, is a classic hold for beginners and experts alike. It’s also one of the most important moves in climbing—especially for those who want to get more out of their holds!

Here are some tips on how to use this technique:

  • Use your thumb as a guide when placing your fingers on the rock (this will help keep you from moving too far).
  • Support your thumb with other parts of your hand as well as by grabbing onto nearby rocks and footholds.

This technique works best when used at low angles but can also be useful at high ones if you need extra support from above or below yourself.*

Get A Good Warmup

If you’re new to bouldering, it’s important to get a good warmup. The best way to do this is with exercises that make your muscles warm up while they’re not working so much. 

For example, if you’re doing an exercise like pullups or power cleans, your body will be warmed up by doing these motions before moving onto more demanding movements like rope climbs.

You should also try doing some stretching and core work as well as dynamic stretches—this will help lengthen out your muscles and relieve tension in them before climbing on top of something high!

Pushing yourself to attempt new heights and challenges is the hallmark of climbing, and some climbers go to incredible extremes to surpass their limits. In our article, “the most insane bouldering feats ever attempted,” we share the stories of the most incredible bouldering achievements that will inspire you to embark on your journey.

Do Your Exercises Daily

As you get stronger, you’ll notice that your body has developed a better ability to handle the impact of bouldering. You’ll be able to climb harder routes and stay on them longer before taking a rest.

But what happens if you take a break from climbing? Your muscles will lose some of their strength, so if you want to improve your performance as quickly as possible, it’s important that you keep up with your exercises every day. 

And even though it might be tempting not to do them when things get busy at work or school (or even when life gets too busy), don’t give up on this routine! It really does make a difference in how well we can do our favorite sport–and besides that: nobody likes being sore all over after climbing because they took too much time off between sessions!

Doing these exercises regularly will help us build up more muscle mass around joints like elbows/wrists/knees… which means less pain when we go out climbing again!

Condition Your Fingertips

The best way to condition your fingertips is by using a combination of chalk, a rough surface and hangboard training.

For example, if you’re at the gym and want to improve your grip while bouldering on smooth holds, use chalk! It’ll help with friction as well as provide extra support for those tiny muscles in your hands (the ones responsible for gripping). 

In fact, some climbers believe that “chalk makes me climb better” because it allows them more control over their movements and improves their confidence in their ability–which means less falling!

If you don’t have access to a gym or just want something convenient that’s easy on-the-go with no mess involved whatsoever? 

Then try rubbing some sandpaper across the tips of each finger before climbing outside; this will help build up calluses over time which improves grip strength significantly! If this sounds like too much work though then I recommend getting yourself one

Train Your Body

Now that you know how to find the best bouldering routes, it’s time to learn how to use your body to its fullest potential.

  • Train Your Core Muscles

Your core muscles are the foundation of a strong climbing body and can be trained through exercises such as planks, sit-ups, back extensions, and crunches. This will help you maintain balance when you’re hanging from a hold or pulling yourself up on the wall with one arm (or both).

  • Train Your Legs

Legs are often neglected when we think about training for climbing because most people focus on their upper bodies instead of their lower ones; however this isn’t necessarily true! Training your legs will increase power throughout all levels of difficulty because it builds strength in areas like ankles and knees–which is especially important if you’re going after highball problems where falls could result in injury or death!

Conclusion

Bouldering is one of the most popular ways to get into climbing. It’s easy to learn and can be done anywhere there’s a wall, making it perfect for beginners or experienced climbers looking for some fun. 

This guide will teach you the best techniques for every level of experience, so whether you’re just starting out or want to improve your skills we’ve got something here for everyone!

Further Reading

Here are some additional resources to help you improve your bouldering skills:

Improve Climbing: An ultimate guide for bouldering technique from footwork to body positioning.

99Boulders: A collection of bouldering tips and tricks, including technique, strength training, and gear advice.

Urban Outdoors: A guide to the best bouldering tips aimed at beginners.

FAQs

What gear do I need for bouldering?

The essential equipment for bouldering includes climbing shoes, chalk, a chalk bag, and a crash pad. Beginners can also make use of tape and gloves.

How can I train for bouldering?

To improve strength and technique for bouldering, focus on exercises such as pull-ups, push-ups, and hangboard workouts. Additionally, increasing flexibility and cardiovascular fitness can also be beneficial.

Where are the best bouldering spots?

Some of the most popular bouldering destinations include Hueco Tanks in Texas, Bishop in California, and Rocklands in South Africa. However, there are many great bouldering spots across the world, each offering something unique.

How can I prevent injuries while bouldering?

To avoid common bouldering injuries, such as strains and sprains, warm up before climbing, use proper technique, and avoid overuse. It’s also crucial to rest and recover appropriately between sessions.

How can I overcome fear in bouldering?

Fear can be a significant obstacle in bouldering. To overcome it, start small with easier climbs, practice falling on purpose, and have a supportive climbing partner. Building confidence and trust in your abilities can also make a big difference.