Speed climbing is a challenging sport that requires you to move quickly and efficiently through routes. It’s not about who can climb the fastest, but rather about maintaining a consistent pace throughout the route.
If you don’t have the endurance or are too slow when approaching certain sections of the wall, then it becomes difficult to maintain your momentum. Here are some tips for improving your speed climbing game:
| Takeaways |
|---|
| Focusing on proper training techniques can significantly improve your speed climbing game. |
| Becoming a speed climbing champion takes a lot of hard work, dedication, and mental preparedness. |
| Mental and physical preparation, along with proper gear, are crucial for safe and successful speed climbing. |
| Improving your speed climbing technique requires a combination of both physical and mental training. |
| Utilizing experts tips and advice can help take your speed climbing skills to the next level. |
Practice
To improve, you must practice. And the only way to improve is to practice. That’s right, practicing is key!
- Practice at home by working on your technique, footwork and body positioning.
- Practice in the gym with a coach or friend. Ask them to video you while climbing so that they can show you what you’re doing wrong and how to fix it!
- Practice on a bouldering wall at least once per week because it’s important to be able to climb without ropes or a harness before going out into the big bad world of real rock climbing!
- Practice with an experienced climber who can teach you new moves and tricks that will help take your game up another level!
Improving your speed climbing game requires proper training and techniques, so check out our ultimate guide to speed climbing training and technique to learn from the experts and take your skills to the next level.
Know The Route
Before you start climbing, know the route. This may seem obvious, but it’s easy to get caught up in the moment and forget that many speed climbs are done on routes you’ve never seen before.
How do you study a route? Well, what are your options? You can either climb it yourself or watch someone else climb it (ideally someone who is faster than you).
If this is out of the question for whatever reason (maybe because your coach doesn’t have time), then think about asking around for beta from people who might have climbed it before.
Once you know what holds are available for each move and where they go, look for patterns in their use: which holds should be used first and which ones should be saved until last?
For example: if there are two giant juggy holds on one side of the wall with smaller crimps on the other side—which would make sense to use first? The jugs!
Of course! But if there were two small pockets instead…maybe save those till last because they don’t give as much momentum when pulled off as jugs do when pushed onto them.
Table: Tips for Familiarizing Yourself with Climbing Routes
| Takeaway | Example |
|---|---|
| Use online resources to research the route and its difficulty level | Mountain Project, Climb Assist |
| Ask more experienced climbers for beta, or information on the route | Climbing partners, Local climbing gym |
| Visualize and memorize the route beforehand | Sketches, Videos |
| Visit the route and observe other climbers | In-person observations |
| Practice on similar routes to familiarize yourself with the climbing style | Indoor climbing walls, Local crags |
Warm Up
Warm up your muscles. Warming up is a great way to prepare for a climb, whether it’s an indoor or outdoor route and whether you’re climbing during the winter or summer.
Warm up your joints. Climbing involves lots of twisting and turning, so it’s important to make sure that all of your joints are ready to go before getting on the wall.
Warm up your mind. This one is pretty self-explanatory take some time before starting a route to focus on how you’re feeling at that moment and what strategies may work best in that situation.
Warm up your heart rate.
Just like warming up any other muscle group in the body (like arms or legs), it’s important to warm up those little hearts inside our chests as well!
remember not too overdo it; remember this is just supposed be light exercise so don’t push too hard.
Breathing exercises.
Breathing exercises are also useful for people who have trouble focusing when performing physical tasks under pressure—this includes athletes such as skiers and runners as well as climbers!
Do you want to become a speed climbing champion? Our article on going from amateur to pro provides you with tips and tricks on how to train and prepare for the next competition.
Flexibility + Mobility
The importance of stretching, mobility and warming up cannot be overstated. Without being well-rested and flexible, your body will not be prepared for the demands placed on it while climbing.
This can lead to injuries that could have been avoided with proper preparation. The following are some general tips on how to improve your flexibility and overall mobility:
Warm up by doing a series of dynamic stretches before you start climbing—they should include lunges, arm swings, leg swings and walking high kicks (see attached video). This will prime muscles that might otherwise tighten during an intense climb.
Use this time to also get your heart rate up so as not to waste precious energy when climbing at full speed!
Stretch after every session—even if it only means taking a few minutes between climbs! Stretching after climbing helps reduce stiffness in joints by increasing blood flow and flushing out lactic acid buildup from muscles.
It also improves recovery time so that you’re ready for another session sooner rather than later.
Build Endurance
There are a few ways to do this. The first is climbing more often. The more you climb, the stronger your muscles will get and the better shape you’ll be in, especially if you’re willing to push yourself a little harder and try routes that are beyond your comfort zone.
Another way is by increasing the difficulty of your climbs gradually over time so that each one is challenging but not overwhelmingly hard (especially when it comes to bouldering).
Finally, if you’re looking for something quick and easy that can help build endurance while also improving other skills like balance and coordination, try traverses: instead of only having holds below your feet on either side of a wall as with typical routes you’ll have them above as well (sometimes even above + below).
Traversing up an overhang feels very different from climbing down one; this difference alone will provide an excellent workout!
You don’t have to be a pro to improve your speed climbing skills. Take a look at these expert tips on how to scale walls in record time and see the difference they can make in your performance.
Do A System Board Test
Get a system board with four holds (they don’t have to be different sizes)
Set up the holds on a wall at chest height, and stand facing them
Grab the first hold with an open-handed grip and pull as hard as possible for 15 seconds
Rest for 30 seconds, then do the same thing with your other hand, then rest another 30 seconds before repeating step 3 with both hands simultaneously
Record how much weight each hand added together could hold (i.e., if your right hand added up to 100 pounds of weight and your left added up to 50 pounds of weight, you would write down “150”). This is your combined score
Table: Top Tips for Knowing Your Climbing Route
| Tips |
|---|
| Review route maps and guidebooks beforehand. |
| Check for online resources and beta for the climb, such as forums or blogs. |
| Watch other experienced climbers tackle the route to learn the best techniques. |
| Use climbing apps or tools like Mountain Project, Climbplan, or AllTrails to find route information and download maps. |
| Familiarize yourself with the terrain and potential hazards before starting the climb. |
Embrace The Pain Cave
Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, every climber can benefit from training in a state of discomfort.
It’s important to push yourself and embrace the pain cave because when it comes down to it, that’s what competition climbing is all about: pushing yourself through those moments that make you want to quit.
The best way to do this is by making small incremental improvements over time. Each day, focus on executing one move slightly better than you did yesterday and then keep doing that for weeks or months until your body has made enough adaptations so that the movement feels natural when performed at full speed with maximum power output.
Breaking records requires more than just physical strength, it also demands the right training tips. Check out these expert training tips for a comprehensive guide on how to prepare yourself mentally and physically.
Know Your Weaknesses
Knowing your weaknesses will help you to improve. It’s important to know what you are good at so that you can focus on improving those areas. The most common weaknesses are:
- Grip strength and forearm endurance
- Finger strength, especially the fingers that grip the holds
- Dynamic movements, such as pull-ups or jumping off a wall (known as dynos)
Watch Videos Of Climbers On Routes Similar To Yours
Watching videos of climbers on routes similar to yours is a great way to learn new skills and improve your overall climbing game.
Try to emulate their style, footwork, and hand movements in order to develop a more efficient technique.
You’ll want to find videos that are shot from above or below the climber so you can see how they use their feet and hands when moving up the wall.
To become a speed climbing pro, you need to take your skills to the next level. Our article on how to take your speed climbing skills to the next level offers advanced techniques to help you improve your abilities and dominate the competition.
Have A Race Plan And Know Exactly When You’re Going To Use It
Having a race plan is important to improving your speed climbing game. You should have a complete understanding of the entire course, and know exactly when you’re going to use it.
This can be tricky when you have multiple options on any given problem or route. It’s okay to change your plans if needed, but don’t get stuck on one approach for too long.
Conclusion
Hopefully these tips have helped you improve your speed climbing game. As we said, there are many different ways to approach a route and all of them will work for some people at some point in time.
But if we had to pick just one tip that would make all the difference, it would be this: practice! You can’t get good at something without putting in the time and effort required to get there, so don’t be afraid of failure because it will only make you stronger (and faster).
Further Reading
Here are some additional resources to help you improve your climbing skills:
99 Boulders – This website offers a variety of tips and tricks to help you improve your climbing, including guides on technique, training, and gear.
Climbing House – This site provides advice on how to improve your climbing game through mental and physical training, as well as proper gear selection.
Bike Radar – While not specifically focused on climbing, this article provides training tips and techniques to help you become a better hill climber.
FAQs
What is speed climbing?
Speed climbing is a form of climbing in which participants race up a predetermined route of fixed holds, with the fastest time winning. It is one of the three climbing disciplines in the Olympics.
How can I improve my speed climbing technique?
Improving your speed climbing requires a combination of physical and mental training, as well as proper technique. Check out our ultimate guide to speed climbing training and technique for expert tips and tricks.
Is speed climbing dangerous?
As with any climbing, speed climbing can be dangerous if proper safety measures are not taken. It is important to always use proper gear and have a qualified partner or instructor to help guide you.
Can anyone become a speed climbing champion?
While it takes a lot of hard work and dedication, with the right training and determination, anyone can become a speed climbing champion.
What gear do I need for speed climbing?
The gear needed for speed climbing varies depending on the specific route and type of climbing, but typically includes climbing shoes, a harness, a rope, and quickdraws or other climbing protection. It is important to always have the proper gear and to receive proper training on how to use it.
Welcome to my blog! I’m Hellen James, and I’m incredibly passionate about rock climbing, bouldering, ice climbing, and mountaineering. Join me as I embark on thrilling adventures, conquer vertical challenges, and share my experiences and insights with fellow outdoor enthusiasts.
